There is a specific quality to the silence found upon the ridges of Aakenustunturi. Unlike the high-spirited energy of the Levi fell, where the hum of ski lifts and the laughter from mountain-side bistros provide a constant soundtrack, Aakenustunturi offers a profound, ancient stillness. Located just a short drive from the village of Sirkka, this massive, multi-peaked fell stands as a sentinel of the Pallas-Yllästunturi National Park. It is a place for those who seek to lose the crowd and find the primal heart of the Arctic.
To hike Aakenustunturi is to walk through a landscape that feels unchanged since the retreat of the glaciers. The terrain is defined by its vast scree slopes—rivers of weathered, grey stones known locally as rakka. These stones have been fractured by the freeze-thaw cycles of millennia, creating a textured mosaic that glows with a silvery light under the soft autumn sun or the crisp clarity of the early winter air.
The Approach to the Wilderness
The most evocative way to experience this fell is by starting at the Totovaara parking area, south of the main Levi-Kittilä road. From here, the trail winds through lush, old-growth forests where the scent of damp moss and pine needles hangs heavy. In late August and September, this forest floor is a bounteous larder of bilberries and the coveted orange cloudberry, hidden in the boggy fringes.
As you ascend, the spruce trees begin to thin and dwarf, eventually giving way to the hardy mountain birches. These trees, stunted and twisted by the harsh Arctic winds into natural sculptures, signal your transition into the open tundra. The air becomes noticeably sharper, carrying the scent of snow from the higher northern latitudes, even before the first flakes have landed.
The Ascent of Moloslaki
Aakenustunturi is not a single peak but a sprawling massif with several distinct summits. The climb towards Moloslaki, one of its highest points, requires a steady foot and a rhythmic pace. The path here is primitive and honest; there are no man-made stairs or paved walkways, only the earth and the stones.
Reaching the summit ridge provides a literal shift in perspective. To the east, the familiar silhouette of the Levi fell rises, its slopes clearly visible across the vast expanse of the Kittilä marshes. To the west and north, the horizon stretches towards Ylläs and the further reaches of the national park, a sea of undulating fells that turn deep indigo as the afternoon light wanes. It is here that one truly understands the scale of Lapland—a land where the sky occupies more space than the earth.
The Spirit of the Scenery
For the guest at Lux Lapland, the appeal of Aakenustunturi lies in its rugged exclusivity. While the trails are well-marked by the national park authorities, you will often find you are the only soul on the ridge. This isolation allows for a deep connection with the natural phenomena of the region.
- The Ruska Palette: During the weeks of ruska (autumn foliage), the fell is transformed into a fiery masterpiece. The ground-level shrubs—blueberries and bearberries—turn shades of crimson and deep burgundy, contrasting sharply against the grey rakka stones.
- Avian Observers: Keep a watchful eye for the Siberian Jay, a bold and curious bird often found in these woods. It is considered a bringer of good luck to travellers in Lappish folklore.
- The First Frost: In late October, the small alpine lakes hidden in the folds of the fell begin to glaze over with crystal-clear ice, creating natural mirrors that reflect the pale lilac hues of the Arctic sky.
- The Junkers Wreckage: For those interested in history, a detour leads to the remains of a Junkers Ju 52 that crashed on the slopes during the Second World War. The wreckage remains as a haunting, weathered monument amongst the stones.
Provisions and Preparation
Despite its proximity to the luxuries of Sirkka, Aakenustunturi must be treated with respect. The weather on the fells is notoriously fickle; a clear afternoon can rapidly transform into a swirling mist or a sudden snow squall. We recommend dressing in layers of fine merino wool and carrying a windproof outer shell, even on days that appear mild from the comfort of your terrace.
A hike of this calibre deserves proper sustenance. We suggest packing a thermos of hot lingonberry juice and local rye bread sandwiches filled with cold-smoked reindeer. There is a wilderness hut at Vasalaki that provides a sheltered spot for a break, where the simple act of brewing coffee over a wood fire becomes a highlight of the journey.
Returning to the Fold
As the sun dips towards the horizon, casting long, dramatic shadows across the Kittilä valley, the descent begins. The legs may feel the weight of the miles, but the mind is invariably lighter. There is a specific type of fatigue that comes from a day spent on the ancient stones—a weary satisfaction that no spa treatment can quite replicate, though our saunas at Lux Lapland certainly come close.
Returning to the warmth of your apartment after a day on Aakenustunturi is one of the great joys of the Arctic experience. The contrast between the raw, unforgiving beauty of the fell and the refined, soft textures of your private retreat creates a perfect balance. As you watch the first stars—or perhaps the first faint ribbons of the Aurora Borealis—appear over the silhouettes of the pines, the silence of the ancient stones remains with you, a quiet reminder of the timeless world that lies just beyond the doorstep.